Romantic Danube

The fortress at the end

The fortress at the end

We said goodbye to the crew of the AmaVerde and stepped to the dock at Budapest. It was the last stop of our cruise along the “Romantic Danube.” We had traveled some 500 miles, approximately one-third of the run of this magnificent river. We had floated through beautiful swaths of Germany, Austria, Slovakia, and Hungary. But now we were down to the final 24 hours.

Our viral romance

Our viral romance

Some people go to Vienna for the coffee, Others for the opera. I scored COVID there.

You expect to catch viruses and diseases in drab German towns like Feuchtwangen (“Moist cheeks”), Kotzen (“Vomit”), or Elend (“Wretchedness”). But no, no, no. Not me. It was during a night in waltzing Vienna that the symptoms struck: deep cough, tight chest, snotted nose, running wife. Vicki glided in 3/4 tempo to the reception desk and fetched a test kit.

Lion Cage (Part 1)

Lion Cage (Part 1)

Dürnstein may not tickle the eyes as other Danube castles do, but its secrets tickle the imagination— especially for Bible Land explorers. Here, Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned on his way home from the Crusades. How he was captured and how he was released is the stuff of mystery (and music!). Consider his capture here; we’ll save his release for another post.

People painter

People painter

I met Roskovics for the first time outside my hotel in Budapest. His easel was before him, as was the picturesque Széchenyi Chain Bridge spanning the Danube (no surprise!). Buda Castle Hill was stretching beyond. Roskovics was focused on this landscape. He paid no attention to the gawkers peeking over his shoulder on the promenade. He was absorbed in his work, crayon in one hand, cigarette in the other, bag at his feet.

Happy endings and not so happy endings

Happy endings and not so happy endings

Vicki and I found two seats among the group. It was a warm crowd, members of a Methodist congregation from somewhere in the deep South, just a peach short of the Georgia line.

A Bad Kohlgrub arrival

A Bad Kohlgrub arrival

It was a short drive from Oberammergau to the village of Bad Kohlgrub. There, at the base of Hörnle Mountain, Marcus delivered Vicki and me to the Hotel Shillingshof. We pulled our rollybags out of the bus and waved goodbye to Marcus and the driver.

We did but we didn't do Oberammergau

We did but we didn't do Oberammergau

We walked into town dragging our rollybags. Across the river we found the village of Oberammergau rimmed by mountains as full of boutique hotels, galeries, and kitschy shops. I fingered my phone hoping to find an open wifi signal and a message with further instructions.

Go with the Flow

Go with the Flow

We walked the asphalt trail. The earth smelled wet and looked smudgy. The sky was indecisive. In one moment the rain dropped and veered, its trajectory altered by gusts of wind. A moment later, the muslin drapes of the sky were pulled back and sunlight shot through. It ricocheted off the wet sheen and illuminated the droplets clinging to leafless branches of the trees (that undoubtedly provided marvelous colors or welcome shade along the riverbank in other seasons of the year). These droplets transformed into diamonds for an instant, then the drapes curled and closed. The dance was over as suddenly as it started.